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Reprinted from the BVI Welcome Tourist Guide
Vol. 31, No.1 - December / January 2001/02.
Go to the BVI Welcome On-Line | The Authoritative Web Site for the BVI
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The cold wintry weather is behind you as you fly towards the British Virgin Islands, your chosen tropical-sailing destination. You anticipate sun, sand, sea and balmy breezes. You dream of dancing under the stars to lively Caribbean rhythms and, since it's Christmas time, you perhaps anticipate a little over-indulgence involving spicy West Indian creations and tall fruit coladas generously laced with rum. As your plane descends towards sparkling indigo seas, freckled with white caps and emerald isles in every direction, you ponder the term Christmas Winds. You'll soon find out because your yacht-for-a-week or two becomes a reality when you step aboard and prepare for the adventure ahead.
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As with most things in life, preparation is the key to success. Besides rollicking sailing (yes, Christmas winds blow from 20 to 30 knots), snorkelling and diving are popular pastimes. Everyone should have properly fitting snorkelling equipment and scuba divers should check in with their chosen dive company to discuss the itinerary to fit in with the cruise. All the yacht charter companies provide a detailed and comprehensive boat and chart briefing which enables guests to enjoy a relaxing and worry free cruise.
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Be adventurous: not only is it Christmas but you're in the Caribbean. Try some black cake (a rich rum and fruit cake), a bottle of guavaberry wine (there's not a hint of guava anywhere) or a loaf of banana bread.
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Provisions, if not previously arranged, should now be organised. There are plenty of well stocked gourmet grocery shops and supermarkets to choose from - be adventurous: not only is it Christmas but you're in the Caribbean. Try some black cake (a rich rum and fruit cake), a bottle of guavaberry wine (there's not a hint of guava anywhere) or a loaf of banana bread.
Finally ready - untie from the dock and motor away from the marina. It's fun time! There's so much to see, so much to do, a kaleidoscope of experiences await. Norman Island, with the Indians and the Treasure Caves are first on the list and usually it's an easy reach across the Sir Francis Drake channel. Norman Island is reputed to be the Treasure Island of Robert Louis Stevenson's famous story and pirate treasure was actually discovered in one of the deep, dark caves on Norman's west end. A great spot to snorkel and explore. The nearby Indians (so named because the attenuated rocks supposedly look like the tapering feathers of an Indian chief’Äôs headdress) are home to some of the best snorkelling and diving in the B.V.I. Here there are colourful walls, coral gardens and a myriad of friendly fish. There's even an underwater arch that you can swim through and perhaps watch a teeming mass of silver sprat part as you surface.
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Norman Island is reputed to be the Treasure Island of Robert Louis Stevenson's famous story and pirate treasure was actually discovered in one of the deep, dark caves on Norman's west end. A great spot to snorkel and explore. The nearby Indians (so named because the attenuated rocks supposedly look like the tapering feathers of an Indian chief's headdress) are home to some of the best snorkelling and diving in the B.V.I. Here there are colourful walls, coral gardens and a myriad of friendly fish. There's even an underwater arch that you can swim through and perhaps watch a teeming mass of silver sprat part as you surface.
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Last year I captained a 48-ft catamaran, Cat o' Nines anchored at the protected Norman Island Bight. While charter guests, Marj and Liz were busy preparing mountains of potato salad, and mince pies were warming in the oven, Bob and Derek hung tinsel and balloons in the main salon. I volunteered to take charge of the barbecuing and while the T-bone steaks were sizzling away the two children decided to feed the seagulls. "Hey, it's Christmas Eve and even the seagulls should have a treat," said young Natasha. Now, although this can make for a fun photo opportunity, feeding seagulls is unwise because one or two seagulls can soon turn into a swarm when the seagull word is out that free food is available. One of the problems is that innocent crusts of bread metamorphose into sticky white blobs of unmentionable and, when deposited on the dinghy can be a real nuisance. On this occasion the feeding frenzy became so intense that one very ambitious bird managed to drag a half cooked steak into the water while no-one was looking which resulted in happy birds and unhappy crew! After the initial shock large rum punches were served all round... The toast - "A curse on all seagulls!"
On Christmas morning the children were up early whilst everyone else tried to sleep in (without much success). The previous evening had ended with riotous dancing at the Billy Bones, the pirate bar at the head of the bay, and Bob was seen at two in the morning blowing a tin whistle wearing nothing but a party hat.
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After strong coffee there was much unwrapping of presents and shouts of glee. Young William got a new snorkelling set and Natasha was thrilled with an inflatable dolphin. Soon everyone was in the water heading for the reef while I
tried on my new T shirt that said: "The beatings shall continue until morale improves." I wore it for the whole week (with a wash in between, of course).
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The Baths are a spectacular formation of precariously balanced granite boulders and are on nearly everyone's list of "must do" attractions. But on the way east up the channel lies beautiful Peter Island. The five star hotel's beach front restaurant at Deadman's Bay serves delicious lunches at very reasonable prices and shade umbrellas and chaise longues are provided for yachtsmen on the eastern white sand beach. The restaurant overlooks Dead Chest Cay where legend has it that Blackbeard marooned fifteen men with only one bottle of rum for them to fight over. Aaaarh! One's never far away from pirate stories in the B.V.I!
We on Cat o' Nines decided to have a light lunch underway and headed straight for Marina Cay where a table for seven had been reserved at Pusser's beachfront restaurant. Marina Cay hosts one of the most popular happy hours in the islands with showman and musician Michael Beans providing foot-stomping rockabilly entertainment accompanied by Pussers' two-for-one Painkillers. Our Christmas dinner of roast suckling pig was excellent but everyone resisted the plum pudding and went for the rich and gooey mud pie
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We then made a windward sail along Virgin Gorda's stunningly beautiful west coast and short tacked into the North Sound. The Bitter End Yacht Club gets into the Christmas spirit in a big way. Here shiny mega-motoryachts vie for attention alongside multi-million dollar sailing craft. The restaurants are lavishly decorated with seasonal flowers and include an "island Christmas tree." Christmas trees in the B.V.I are flowerless century plants, a species of agave, and are made festive with gold and silver spray paint, tinsel, baubles and glitter.
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Creative ones can rival any traditional tree. The Bitter End's restaurants have some ethnic Caribbean fare for those with adventurous taste buds, including callaloo soup and guava lamb with fungi. We danced the night away to the reggae beat of the Latitude Stars. Nearby, the Saba Rock resort, on its own tiny island, hosted sumptuous buffets during the festive season and featured its renowned resident steel pan band.
Just after dark during the Christmas season, a competition for the best dressed yacht is organised at the Bitter End. This comprises a "sail-past" of vessels gaily decorated with lights, often to the masthead, accompanied by a floating band. We didn't get there in time for this entertaining show, but my crew vowed to take it in on their next trip.
Having over-indulged a bit while at North Sound (too much egg nog, perhaps) we sailed downwind. With sails sheeted out and the wind behind, we relaxed and enjoyed the scenery as we sailed by Tortola's spectacular north shore. Cat o' Nines sails fast on a broad reach and, after all sails were raised and trimmed, the crew went forward to lounge on the trampoline. The North Sound had been fun and Bob and Marj had won the laser division at the Bitter End's Sunday afternoon regatta. Now, the Christmas winds were piping up to 25 knots and we were flying along at 10 knots, perfect for an exhilarating ride. The party venues of Cane Garden Bay and Jost Van Dyke were ahead and party beach bars are a speciality at both locations. Quito's Gazebo is probably Tortola's hottest nightspot with locals and visitors dancing shoulder to shoulder to the reggae sounds of Quito and his band The Edge. Our intrepid crew were anxious to check out the action. We were anchored by 4 p.m. and the four adults decided on a happy hour drink at Myett's, a bohemian style restaurant half way down the palm lined beach, and then a bumper mixed grill. Myett's hosts a "Grand Grill Out" most nights during the festive season with live music right on the beach. I stayed aboard with the kids, improving my monopoly skills.
Probably the most famous beach bar in the B.V.I is Foxy's in Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke. Lining the beach are quaint bars and restaurants, a small bakery and a couple of shops. Foxy's is located under the palm trees at the eastern end of the beach and most afternoons the man often referred to as "The Poet Laureate" of the Virgin Islands will sing impromptu calypso songs about - you. Yes, that's right - everyone has some kind of unique trait or idiosyncrasy and Foxy is the man to spot it and then compose and sing a spontaneous calypso, often of a bawdy nature. So whatever you do make sure all zippers are fastened! Foxy's has become known for its mega parties over the years and Old Year's Night is no exception. International bands and stars like The Beach Boys, and The Mighty Sparrow now stage shows at Fox's on special occasions. It was here that we toasted the New Year and everyone went just a little bit crazy dancing under the stars.
On our way back to the base, we sailed past Tortola's western end and stopped in at Soper's Hole. A more picturesque harbour front would be hard to find anywhere and the array of boutiques and shops can readily supply that special gift or souvenir. There is also a good selection of pubs at West End and most offer outside dining under shade umbrellas. There's a good Caribbean motto to remember here. It used to be advertised at Cell 5, a Road Town cafe, long since closed. It proclaimed, "Best breakfast in de Caribbean, Sumptuous Dinners, Fantastic Drinks, Great Lunches, Steelband", and lastly: "Sorry, we do not cater for people in a hurry." And that just about sums it all up.
The Cat o' Nines' crew and I parted company here. They were all headed home via ferry to St. Thomas. When they appeared with their bags packed they were all wearing identical T shirts - "The beatings will continue." |
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